Recaredo Turó d'en Mota

When we talk of Recaredo we're talking about the pinnacle of quality among Catalan sparkling wines, and should we mention Turó d'en Mota we're putting ourselves right at the very top of that highpoint. At a time when the Cava DO has seen itself immersed in important debates and changes, some wineries have chosen to concentrate their efforts on making products that would've seemed difficult to imagine some years ago, very long-aged Cavas which are fully entitled to sit there among the most illustrious sparkling wines in the world. Turó d'en Mota is probably the best example of this revolution, since we encounter a Cava boasting levels of elegance that were once considered only reserved for Champagne, whilst at the same time reflecting all the magic of the Mediterranean.

The Xarel·lo grapes of this tiny vineyard (0.97 ha), planted in 1940 on the northern side of the hill after which it's named, used to be blended with grapes from other estates in the coupage of Recaredo's best Cavas, until in 1999 it was decided that this particular vineyard deserved a single varietal, vintage wine. In the Turó d'en Mota parcel, the plants are trained on individual posts, following the Priorat model, and take root on very calcareous soils poor in organic material. The vines suffer in their efforts to extract the essence of these Penedés lands, and perhaps that's why the end result is so thrilling. While the grapes are accumulating sugars, Recaredo keeps them under observation, limiting intervention to the minimum, adhering closely to the house's maxim that maintains "simplicity is elegance".

After a first fermentation and subsequent ageing in barrel for 2 weeks, the wine rests for 120 months (10 years!) in bottle, always crowned with a cork stopper, showing once more impeccable consistency: natural materials for a wine that's a gift of nature. Once the long-awaited moment for disgorgement arrives, this is carried out by hand at room temperature, and its date recorded on each of the scarce number of bottles. If you are among the few fortunate ones to uncork a bottle of Turó d'en Mota, taste it slowly, close your eyes and you'll see Mediterranean woodlands, you'll smell a traditional baker at work and feel, as it conveys a silky effervescence, the warmth of dried fruits, nuts and butter, and the freshness of citrus peel, all around the palate, until it culminates in a lovely, harmonious finish to round off the dream. Open your eyes and be thankful, there does exist magic in wine!