Navaherreros Garnacha de Bernabeleva

It now seems an undeniable fact that Madrid wines are leaping up the rungs of the ladder in their rapid rise to the pinnacle of Spanish wine quality. Despite its decisive emergence in recent years, Bernabeleva's history dates back to 1923, with the acquisition of the estate which gave its name to the winery. Bernabeleva literally means 'the route of the bear', hence the house's very special logo: a little girl astride a bear.

Respect for nature is paramount at Bernabeleva. The vineyards are treated with respect, in harmony with their surroundings, letting this be what determines the character of the wines. The vineyard is fertilised with the manure from their own cows and all the work done in the field is carried out following the lunar phases. The land can be discerned in all their wines, which are always mineral and honest-to-goodness.

Navaherreros embodies the merits of the different terroirs to be found in San Martín de Valdeiglesias. Produced using the grapes from vines aged between 40 and 80 years old, collected from the individual parcels and vinified separately, each estate undergoes the best process for showcasing its distinctive features, whether it be through oak, concrete or stainless steel.

Its low density and soft cherry colour seem to want to cover up all the character and power of this huge Madrid red. The slowness of its tears make us take a look at the label to check that its alcohol content is indeed high: 15%. However, there's nothing coarse or excessive in this Navaherreros. Its aromas are elegant, very fine; red fruits, orange peel, damp earth and exotic spices. There's also a touch of musk and dust. On the palate, right from the first contact it brings in an acidity that makes it taut, bestowing a deep verticality and juicy, "Garnacha-type" tannins which make it fuller. The finish, highlighting bitter hints, leaves behind it a very long suggestion of red fruits and toasty notes.